Europe 2005-Grindelwald

Today we moved on to our second destination, Grindelwald, at 3,390 feet above sea level. It is a small village in the Berner Oberland, in a valley across from the snow capped Eiger (13022 ft ) and Jungfrau (13,638 ft). The direct route to Interlaken was closed due to a landslide so we drove in a big circle through Bern, covering 180 km instead of 90. The next hurdle was the access road into Grindelwald. Both the road and railroad tracks had washed away in the flood. A small side road was prepared and pressed into service but it was too narrow for two-way traffic so the road direction alternated every half hour. We lucked out and had to wait only about five minutes. We counted ourselves lucky since the lady in the tourist office in Lucerne said we could not get to Grindelwald.

The apartment is lovely, light paneled wood throughout with two bedrooms and one and a half baths. From the balcony, kitchen and upstairs bedroom we can see the breathtaking North Face of the Eiger mountain looming above us. We were giddy with excitement staring up at the mountain scenery that looked like a painting. The housekeeper showed us around then left us to soak in the scenery and comfortable surroundings.

We stopped at the Tourist office for maps and literature then did some “preliminary” shopping including more cheese, salami, bread and wine. Back at the chalet we had a late lunch on the balcony, reviewed the literature and roughed out a plan for our week long stay then unpacked and settled in. In the evening we drove into town to explore some more though the rain and closed shops made it a quick trip.

We awoke to low clouds and fog but no rain. While making breakfast we noticed that the sun was shining on the peak of the Eiger, surrounded by a patch of brilliant blue sky. A good omen for our trip today. We took the cable car up to Mannlichen at 7,300 feet. On the trip up we had the interesting experience of having our cable car go up into the clouds. At the top there were patches of blue but mostly clouds. After walking around for a while we decided to have an early lunch in the hopes that the sky would clear. Lunch was good but the clouds remained so we started a slow hike down to Kleine Schedegg, 2.5 miles away and 550 feet below Mannlichen. We walked slowly, savoring the occasional patch of brilliant blue sky revealing a snow covered peak. We also enjoyed the views of the green valleys and quaint villages below us and cows with large, loud bells, that were everywhere along the trail. The hike was magnificent and it would have been perfect had we not known of the fabulous mountain range behind the clouds.

Once down to Kleine Schedegg, we hoped to see the falcon flight demonstration but the last show was a half hour before we arrived. We then caught the train back down to Grindelwald and settled into our chalet to enjoy the balcony and review the digital photos and video we shot during the day. Then it was off to Uncle Tom’s Pizza for supper. This place came very highly recommended and did not disappoint. The pizza was great and it was a fun place. As we arrived at Uncle Tom’s, the setting sun illuminated the snow covered peaks with a breathtaking orange glow. As we left the restaurant we noticed the sky was full of stars. Two very good signs. We changed plans to make the most of the clear weather; tomorrow we will take the train up to the Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe at 11,300 feet.

Not a cloud in the sky!!! When we got off the train at Kliene Schedegg we were greeted by the magnificent vista of three massive mountains filling the sky. The Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau were ablaze with sunlight reflected from the snowfields and glaciers. We then boarded the train for the Jungrfaujoch, the train station at the “Top of Europe”. Most of the trip was in a tunnel that goes through the Eiger. When we exited the train we took a 300 foot elevator to the Sphinx observation platform. The view took our breath away, or was it the altitude? At 11,700 feet, when we moved too fast it was easy to get light headed and short of breath.

The Jungfraujoch is in a saddle between the peaks of the Jungfrau and Monch. These two peaks towered above us and the rest of the world was spread out below. From up here most of the world is white, though the view to the north includes the green valley where Kleine Schedegg is located. Through binoculars we could see the train station more than a mile below us. After soaking up the views from the platform we walked outside on to the snowfield. There is a wide trail that leads off to a hut 45 minutes away. We didn’t go that far but we walked through the snow for a few hundred yards wondering at the Alpine scenery and throwing the occasional snowball. Though we did not partake, we could have rented skis, snowboards, taken a dog sled ride or tried for a hole in one on the glacier.

Back into the building we had lunch then went to the Ice Palace, a series of tunnels dug in the glacier with ice sculptures of eagles, penguins and seals. You could see the annual layering in the glacier ice that averaged about one inch thick. When we got to a sign that said we were 30 feet under the surface, we realized we were in ice that had fallen as snow 360 years ago. From the ice palace we climbed up to the terrace, another outdoor observation platform. This terrace was not protected from the wind and it was pretty cold which limited our stay here.

The train trip back to Grindelwald was uneventful. After power shopping for food and drinks at the Coop store, Sandy made a delicious cheese fondue and we spent a relaxing evening looking at all of the pictures and video we had taken. Then it was early to bed for our 7 AM departure.

It started off as an easy day, but by the time it ended, Roberta and Elliot had been awarded the “Good Sport Hikers “Award. Carl and Sandy read about a guided wildlife hike and we signed up. We met our guide Peter at 7:30 AM at the bus station. He drove us up to Grosse Schedegg where we began our wildlife hike. Through water, muck and mud, we hiked up a steep hillside for about a mile to catch a glimpse of Chamois, a Swiss mountain goat. As encouragement, Peter told us, “If it was easy, you would not remember it as well!” We found a herd of about 30 animals off in the distance. After watching them for about a half hour we went back to the parking lot and said our goodbyes to Peter.

We were now on our own and decided to spend the afternoon on a combination hike/cable car trip. It turned out to be mostly hiking, about six miles, some of which was pretty steep. We hiked then cable carred to “First” where we had a nice lunch and enjoyed the magnificent views from the restaurant terrace as well as the sight of para sailers soaring among the high mountains. We also picked out what we would have for a snack later. We then headed off to the lakes that had been recommended to us. Sections of the trail were pretty steep but we realized it would be downhill coming back. The lakes were beautiful, especially with the snow covered mountains in the background. The hike back was a lot easier and we enjoyed our apple crisp and ice cream washed down with $4 per bottle water.

The cable car brought our four leg weary hikers back to Grindelwald for a double fondue dinner. We finished off the Cheese fondue from last night and topped it off with a chocolate fondue with a variety of fruit. Another evening of looking at photos and videos brought our long day to an end.